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The Chimney Safety Institute recommends that if you light fires in your fireplace or woodstove three or more times a week during the heating season, proper maintenance would include cleaning and inspecting the chimney once a year. If you burn green wood, twice-a-year cleaning and inspection may be necessary.


Chimney maintenance keeps your family safe

       Our chimney cleaning includes a 12-Point inspection to make sure your chimney is in good condition to be used. In fairness to our customers, and to keep our reputation in good stead, we will only perform the repair the way it should be done. This way, we can guarantee our crowns, in writing on your Record of Service.

        When chimney fires occur in masonry chimneys - whether the flues are an older, unlined type or are tile lined to meet current safety codes - the high temperatures at which they burn (around 2000' F) can "melt" mortar, crack tiles, cause liners to collapse and damage the outer masonry material. Most often, tiles crack and mortar is displaced, which provides a pathway for flames to reach the combustible wood frame of the house. One chimney fire may not harm a home. A second can burn it down. Enough heat can also conduct through a perfectly sound chimney to ignite nearby combustibles.

        As fires burn, smoke goes up the chimney. Some smoke will condense into creosote on the inside of the chimney, or what is known as the flue. Creosote looks like a tar and it is very hard since it slowly builds over time after each fire. If creosote happens to catch fire, a chimney fire will ensue, which will be so loud that it will sound like a jet engine.

        The majority of build up of creosote happens as fires are being lighted. Cold chimneys will condense more smoke than hot ones. A continuous fire is less likely to build creosote than many separate fires.

Common chimney conditions that can damage it:

  1. Concrete crown cracked

  2. Courses of bricks damaged

  3. Flue liners cracked

  4. No chimney cap

  5. Presence of creosote

When the chimney concrete crown has weathered and cracked allows water to seep down into the holes of the top course (row) of brick and ultimately make its way throughout the entire masonry structure. It is a necessary and normal occurrence for a chimney to take on a small amount of moisture, in other words, the chimney must “breathe.”  The crown’s deterioration is permitting the chimney to absorb too much water. This condition causes constant freezing and thawing during the winter months. At one time or another, you’ve probably seen chimneys where some of the brick “faces” are chipping, have completely popped-off, or have bricks missing all together. This is a condition called “Spalling,” and started because of no crown at all.

There is only one proper way to correct this problem. The old crown must be completely removed and then relayed with portland cement, not mortar. Mortar is used to lay bricks and will not stand up to the extreme temperatures and weather conditions found at the very top of the chimney. You cannot relay a new crown directly on top of the failed one or fill the cracks with silicon sealant. If you allow either of those quick fixes to be performed, the freezing and thawing mentioned earlier will cause your money to have been wasted after one winter.

Cracks or breaks in the flue liners can interfere with the chimney’s ability to properly carry away dangerous gases like carbon monoxide, which may seep into your home unnoticed. Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning are similar to those of the flu: headaches, fatigue and nausea.  To correct this problem we recommend to replace the flue liner for the chimney and furnace.

Chimney crown before

Chimney crown after

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Chimney Cleaning & Inspection


Woodstove  $99.00

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Any Chimney Cap installed

$10.00 Off

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Any Chimney Masonry Repair

15 % Off

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Some restrictions apply